Mile-Ex: Where French culinary prowess and American portion sizes meet for lunch

In a neighbourhood still rankled by its sudden popularity (and contentious hyphenate), a brazen new addition to Montreal’s culinary scene has come to mark territory. Claiming chopping rights on the amputated arm of rue Jeane-Mance, Mile-Ex is the brainchild of chef Grégory Paul, an adroit French import with quite the constellated pedigree. Earning his stripes at such Michelin starred restaurants as Le Pré Catelan and Le Jardin des Sens in France, Paul came to la belle province to pursue one thing: love. He met his lady fair while they were both employed at LA’s celeb-spangled L’Orangerie (RIP), and, through a series of fortunate events (well, fortunate for those of us who like to eat well) the chef and his wife Patricia landed here, in marvelous MTL.

The restaurant itself is quite the mash-up; a coarse casse-croûte meets hipster-happy hideaway serving American hardy fare with fine French technique. Dining room, bar, kitchen and even refrigerator all co-exist in the same cozy space, the homemade pickles you’ll find on your “Motherf***** Burger” jarred and nestled right next to the icy cold (and bracingly strong) Bruce Cost Ginger Ale. As of the time of this review, Mile-Ex did not have its liquor license, but Paul and his right-hand man Christian Allard assured me that it would be in place soon.

How well a beer would go with the Méchoui Sandwich, a mammoth amount of pulled lamb shoulder, barely held together in the loving embrace of an Arhoma Bakery onion bun. Braised for seven hours in a wealth of Moroccan spices, complimented with cukes and feta, settled alongside a heaping helping of pommes rissolées, this meal virtually cries out for a doggy bag (and several napkins, with which to wipe that messy smile off your face). Upon being served, my dining companion exclaimed, “Now this is a portion for a man! Or a very pregnant lady!”

As the portions are generous (Paul claims that he only serves dishes sized to his appetite), the prices are kind. I’ve pushed far inferior gazpachos around my bowl for far steeper sums. Mile-Ex’s version is fresh and vibrant, tasting of summer tomatoes and green herbs and le Marché Jean-Talon at its very best.

Early every morning, Chef Paul heads out to the nearby market to purchase his ingredients, find his inspiration, and start constructing his specials. On the board that day was a dish of calmar prepared with a wink and a nod to the chef’s Montpellier roots. Jacques-of-all-trades Allard told me it was not to be missed, so who was I to argue? Scored and crossed-hatched, grilled and smartly seasoned, the squid remained tasty and tender even after sitting untouched for several minutes (my bad—I was busy gossiping). Remarkable! Served atop crisp green beans and aioli-smothered potato salad, colourfully kitted out with lemon confit, tomato confit, and bright lashings of parsley oil, this dish was like eating an entire summer picnic piled high on just one plate. Delicious? Most definitely. However, if I had one grievance to air, it would be that this creation was all a tad too unctuous. Perhaps if the heaviness were to be cut with a good ol’ American, seasonally fruited shrub (a “drinking vinegar” now all the rage), or a simple tipple of Picpoul de Pinet, all would be forgiven.
 

Mile-Ex
6631 rue Jeane-Mance
514.272.7919
Mon-Fri: 8AM to 6PM
Serving breakfast and lunch